Puhvaika voi teekond pohja poole

Tervised kallid s6brad. Yks soovitus kah, kui juhtute manniriisikate aegu, kuklapooluse sygistalvel Sinimagede Rahvusparki kylastama, mis asub Sydney lahedal, (New South Wales) Uus Louna Walesi osariigis, jatke rannariided koju ja votke parem puhvaika kaasa.

Seenesupp, manniriisikad. Matkamas - 6 foot track.

Natuke siis ylevaadet millega vehepeal tegelenud olen, kuna iial ei voi teada, kas jargnevatel paevadel tasuta netti votta on.

Olen siis Tasmaania selja taha jatnud ja tagasi suurel mandril, kohe pika sammuga kodumaale lahemale astunud:)

Nimelt olin Tasmaanias oma toreda sobra Renee pool ounakoogiga kodust olmet nautimas, kui sain SMS-i oma vahvalt inglise sobrannalt Tierneylt, et tema juba Melbournes ja muuseas plaanib mone paeva parast hipi festivalile minna. Sonad hipi ja festival tundusid mulle aga vaga ahvatlevad ja otsustasin, et olen piisavalt nyydseks Tasmaaniat nainud ja oleks tore igasugu ponevaid hipisid kohata ja head muusikat nautida.

Praamiga Melbourne-i.

Ja imeilusa linnapanoraami peegeldusega ookeanipeeglis ja kuusirbiga Melbourne-i ma saabusin. Tierney kenasti sadamas vastas ja telkisime sel oosel siis tema soprade tagaaias.

Jargmine paev poidlakyydiga hipifestivalile, jeee.

Festival ise toimub kaks korda aastas (lihavotted ja joulud) suht "in the middle of nowhere" paigas a 350 km Melbourne-st pohja pool ja vottis alles aega see yles leida korvalteid soites. Aga mis koige parem, kyydi saime sinna valja yhe teise festivalile suundujaga. Milline joppamine

Tegu oli igati poneva yritusega, nimega ConFest http://www.dte.org.au/ Marksonadeks spontaansus, alternetiivsed ja end igati vabalt tundvad inimesed, vabaohu tootoad. Koige lahedam oli aga 24 tundi paevas toimuvad spontaansed trummikontserdid ja 24 h saun (higitelk). Super, kohe kui teada sain, et festivali alal on saun, enamuse ajast ma seal veetsin ja suurt tootubadesse ei joudnudki. Ja sai alles õhtuti tantsida, eriti kihvtid lokke aares toimuvad trummikontserdid, juhhuu. Ja hordide viisi ponevaid sobralikke hipilikke (kunsti)inimesi. Tootubades sai aga oppida igasugu ponevaid asju, nt joogat, mediteerimist (kuhu ma kunagi ei joudnud, kuna toimusid liiga varahommikul, noh tegelikult enne kl 12-st:); vitspunumine; latiinotants; massaaz jne. Koige ponevam oli aga sponaatnne tegevus nimega mudtribe (mudahoim), kus sai siis end mudasse mitu korda kastetud, see ara kuivatatud, tolmu, prahi ja kehamaalingutega end kaetud ja mitu tundi primitiivsete inimeste kombel mooda festivaliala ringi joostud (ja "normaalseid" inimesi tylitatud) ja ainult oma hoimukeeles raagitud. Veetsin sel festivalil 5 toredat paeva. Hulgaliselt kontakte kelle juuerst Sydneys voi laheduse peavarju saada.

Igastahes motlesin, et kuna ma Austraalia selja taha jattes seokest yritust enam nautida ei saa, peaks isegi midagi taolist aga tiba teistmoodi kodumaal korraldama. Tiba vahem alternatiivse siiski, ja veelgi rohkem 8ko-efekti lisades, miks mitte. Oleks jube ponev.

Parast seda ilusat festivali haaletasin siis edasi Sydney poole, Tierney suundus oma esimesele yksihaaletamise retkele Canberrasse. Valisin korvalisema kiirtee, kus peaasjalikult vaid rekkad soidavad. Yhe kyydi sain siis toidurekkaga ja teise maisitolvikuid vedava veoautoga, oli vaga ponev ja sain tasuta maisitolvikuid kaasa.

Ja siis Sinimagede Rahvuspargi nn pealinna, Katoombasse. Tegu on kohutavalt turistliku rahvuspargiga, holmab ka kiirtee aarde jaavaid linnakesi. Ega ma ei teadnudki et Katoomba Sinimagede RPi pealinn on, oma turistiraamatu LONELY PLANETi andsin kah Tierneyle, kuna seda ammu ei kasuta. Lihtsalt vaatasin kaardilt et siin vaatamisvaarsus nimega THREE SISTERS. Tundus tiba tuttav ja ylla ylla, kui kohale saabudes nagin, et tegu ylikuulsa kaljumoodustisega, millest koolitirtsupolves pikalt oma Austraalia uurimuses pajatasin.

Kolm õde, Sinimagede RP

Asub siis kohe Katoomba servas ja a 15 min jalutuskaik kesklinnast. Vaateplatvorm on aga kohutavalt paksult turiste tais. Nt tundsin kuis mu korvad lausa puhkavad ja mu ymber rahu on, kui sealt (kohati kaherajalise liiklusega) nn matkarajalt tagasi kesklinna kondisin.

Kuna tahtsin siinkandis kylastada kah oma uut rastapatsidega sopra festivalilt, mr Heywood-i, otsustasin kauemaks Sinimagedesse jaada. Kuna mu Louna Aafrika juurtega bioloogist sober veel festivalilt tagasi joudnud polnud, otsustasin yhe matka vahepeal ette votta. Infopunktist soovitati mulle pikemaks matkaks ette votta rada nimega six foot track, mille labimiseks pidi 3 paeva kuluma.

OK, samal ohtul suundusin pimeduse saabumisega matkaraja algusesse oobima. Onnestus osa pagasist, st mittematkariided akulaadijad ja didgeridoo (mu pagas pohiliselt matkavarustusest koosnebki), yhte seljakotirandurite kylalistemajja hoiule jatta, lubadusega et tagasitulles seal oo veedan.

6 foot track

Mulle meenutas see Tartu rattamaratoni rada. Suht laiad kruusased teed - 6 foot tahendabki et omal ajal pidi kaks hobuvankrit korvuti mahtuma, labi kylade. Aga polnud ta nii superkerge midagi, sest kohati tuli kilomeetreid ylesmage vantsida, tunnen end nyyd kui sherpa-woman.

Koige ponevam oli raja esimene komandik. Laheda joe aares veetsin suva kohas oma lounapausi ja siis motlesin et miks mitte siia jaadagi. Lounapausist sai ohtusook ning monus soe oo tahistaeva all. Oma pesa kasuariiniokastest punusin siis joe keskele kaljulahmaka peale, kivi oli soe ja seoke vooderdus hoidis selle soojana kogu oo otsa. telgi voltisin pooleks ja magasin selle peal. Monus joevulin ymberringi. Vaike loke, maitsev ohtusook, jep teinekord tunned, et ei olegi mitte midagi rohkem vaja, oled lihtsalt onnelik, et oled kus oled.

Ammuigatsetud matkaelamus - oobimine kivi peal. Viimane soe oo, ei pidanud isegi telki pystitama.

Peace!

Ja alles jargmisel hommikul jalutasin nn ametlikule telkimisalale, kus inimesed olid autodega (paraku saab sinna korvalteid pidi ligi) ja peekonit ja mune hommikusoogiks pakkusid. Ja siis aga vastumage edasi. Onneks vastutulevad matkalised innustasid mind aga vantsima, kuna rohkem kui 20 km kaugusel pidavat manniriisikaid leiduma (manniistanduste all).

Sain imehea saagi, pakkusin oma seenehautist teistele matkalistelegi ja jargmisel hommikul joudsingi raja loppu, Jenolan-i nimeliste koobasteni, mis oli superturistlik - turistikyla, kus olid kylalistemajad, kohvikud, bussijaam ja tuuride keskus, kust valjuhaaldist uute tuuride algusaegu hoigati. Sain shoki, keetsin veel yhe seenehautise ja poorasin otsa ringi ja vantsisin matkarada pidi tagasi, maantee aarde haaletama, onneks leidsin tasuta dushi, kus sain end tiba soojendada vahepeal, sest kippus jahedaks.

Katoombasse tagasi, paks udu ja esimene vaga kylm oo, onneks siis kylalistemajas. Onneks tiba madalamal meretasemel (1200 m) ja tiba soojem kui matkaraja lopus oleks olnud.

Jargmine hommik sain kokku aga oma sinimagede sobraga ja uueks peatuspaigaks ja mu kodu juba paevi, linnake nimega Lawson. Kuna see on a 400 m madalamal meretasemel on siin ka palju soojem. Samuti on see vahem turistlik, aga ponevaid matkaradu jagub siingi. Naudin siis taas k88gi olemasolu ja olen siin keetnud ja kypsetanud igasugu ponevaid eesti toite, mida ei teadnud isegi, et teha oskan. Aga veelgi parem, votta on mul bioloog, kes mulle siinseid austraalia taimi ja linde-loomi tutvustab ja ylevaate saab kohe kogu maailma floorast, kuna kohutavalt palju on invasiivseid voorliike.

Sydney on aga a 50 km kaugusel. Vaga vaga lahedal. Ja pidev asustus sinna valja labi selle Sinimagede Rahvuspargi.

Sai siis yhel õhtal seal suures linnas kah ara kaidud. Nimelt miks ma sinna laksin oli Capoeira (brasiilia-angoola voitlustants) trenn, kuhu ma tanagi lahen. Seekord tegu terve nadalavahetuse yritusega http://www.capoeira-angola.com.au/

Ja sel kaigul sai muuseas see ooperiteater ja kuulus sadamasild kah ara kaedud.

Sydney ooperiteater

Sydney sadamasild

Mr Heywood

Tiba veel Sinimagede loodust

Banksia vili

Aga uus nadal toob taas teele minemise ja puhvaika asemel otsustan kliimavootmeid pidi ylespoole ronida, juhhu.

Nimelt mu hea austraalia sober Sarah, pakub mulle voimalust tema hobusefarmi Byron Bay laheduses hoida. nadalakese oleks terve farm siis minu paralt. ja veel moned sobrad ja soprade sobrad teel kylastada ja siis ta saabub, ainus osariik, mida ma veel nainud siin maal pole - Queensland (paike, troopilised vihmametsad, varviline mereelustik, paraku ka uued too-otsingud:)

Vaike pillilugu:)

Kirjtamise-lugemiseni!

Muide! Tervised tublile pysikommentaatorile, Vullale! Cheers, mate!

Reet, Lawson, New South Wales

I love Tasmania

Hei, kallid sobrad!

Ega ma siin vahepeal suurt muud teinud polegi kui mustlaselu jatkanud tasmaania loodust avastades. Et siis maja seljas -kooktuba, seljakotis poidlakyydiga ringirandamas. Ja pean ytlema et hirmsasti mulle selline elustiil meeldib. Kuigi uskumatu tana viibin teist ood jarjest yhes ja samas kohas, oma endise tookaaslase kodus lemonthyme-i paevilt, nautimas katust pea kohal, seinu ja eile kypsetasin isegi parmitaignast ounakooki, sest naudin soogitegemist paris koogis kah, aga pole ime, olen kohanud oma viimastel nadalatel niipalju haid kokki, ja matkatoit, tean nyyd, peab kah gourmet maitsema, st olen joudnud selleni, et lausa meeldib kokata.

ja on minust saanud peaaegu taimetoitlane, kuna olen kohanud haste palju taimetoitlasi kah ja matkadele olen ikka kaasa votnud seokest taimset stuffi, et sailib haste. aga kohe kindlasti olen jatkuvalt veendunud karnivoor, kui vahegi saab. paraku pole kalastamises siin hetkel vaga tugev.
aga veel siis matkadest.

MT FIELD NATIONAL PARK
Viimase blogi lopus sai mainitud Mt Fieldi Rahvusparki, kus siis loogastumas parast oma suurt retke kaisin. Paike siras ja elu ilus. Yle pika aja oobisin seal kah nelja seina vahel katuse all,matkahytis maenolval. kauguses mollas metsatulekahju ja taevas oli vaga suitsune ning kaalusin sygavalt kas sinna jaada voi ei, aga poleng oli tegelikult vaga kaugel ja hommik tervitas mind kohutavalt ilusate vaadetega magedele, korgel olevatele jarvedele ja imeilusaltele oranzikatele roomsavarvilisytele kivimyrakavaljadele, kust mul udus roomsalt yle jalutada tuli. aga polnud hullu, kaunis, jalutad pilve sees ja iga hetk on vaated erinevad, sest udu kihutab sust yle, avades uusi ponevaid vaateid 360 kraadi. Sada silma on vaja et seda koike ara nautida. Yhesonaga, maed, maed ja muud siin polegi vaja oelda.

Parast seda loogastumist liikusin tagasi Hobartisse, et ehk saare idakaldale nyyd porutada ja monele saarele kah minna, Hobartis otsustasin aga toelist luksust nautida. Nimelt laksin yle pika aja seljakotirandurite hostelisse oobima, kuna tahsin loputut kuuma dushi nautida. Muidu mul Hobartis oma "property" taitsa olemas, ylihea asukohaga, vaatega ookeanile. Parandus nyydseks Tasmaania tolmu jalgelt pyhkinud Dieterilt ja Francois-lt. Mahajaetud aiariba kesklinna rannarajoonis (downtown), yhelpool ookean, teisal plank kirjadega "danger, construction site", naabiteks uhked villad, yhesonaga ydini hea ja ka turvaline paik oma telk paigutada ja vaateid nautida. Aga noh kuna mu isetaituv telgimadrats on paris vasinud nyydseks ja juba ammu pehmemat kyljalust igatsesin, sai siis yhe 88 n6rk oldud.

seal seljakotirandurite kylalistemajas paeva esimese tassikese kohviga loogastuma istudes (kuna hommikul hobartisse haaletades kiirtee aares matkapliidil kohvi keetes sai gaas otsa, sai hobartis esimese asjana seda viga parandatud. ei saa ilma kohvita paeva alustada), kohtasin otsekohe oma toredat briti sobrannat Tierney-t ravimatimefarmis wwoofimise paevilt. Igastahes kujunes asi sdapsi, et jargmisel paeval laksime koos Maria saarele.

Veel eile ei teadnud ma isegi millisele saarele minna. Maria saart soovitas mystiline paaniflooti mangiv tumesilmne puidust purjeka omanik Grant Hobarti vanalinna sadamast.

MARIA ISLAND National Park
Tierney! Et nimetas ta mind siis oma grandmaster trek-iks ehk siis matkaguruks ja tuli nadalakeseks kaasa, et matkatarkusi korva taha panna. Ja pean oma opilase yle vaegade uhke olem, nyyseks on linnatydrukust saanud kah wild woman, oma telgi matkapliidi ja potiga:)

Matk. Hommikul Hobartis asju kokku pannes vaatasin hammeldusega tema kolme kotti ja kysisin et millise ta siis matkale neist kaasa votab, koik. OK:)
Asusime siis haaletama. Suurema osa teest saime kyydi kohaliku naisterahvaga, kes meid igati valgustas Tasmaania metsa- ja keskkonnavaenuliku poliitika suhtes. Soovitas neil teedel ylimalt ettevaatlik olla, kuna sisenesime taas metsaraidurite maailma. suured palgiautod, mitte just koige intelligentsemad roheliste suhtes vaga vihaselt meelestatud mehed. Et siis sadamalinna Triabunnasse, joudes, votsin esimese asjana oma mitmevarvilise pearatiku peast ara, et vahem hipi valja naha ja keerasin rohelise sonumiga riidekoti pahupidi. Lisaks motlesime Tierneyga endale valja uued identideedid, kuna molemad oleme bioloogid. :)

Noh joudsime me siis sinna sadamalinna tapselt 15 min parast viimase praami lahkumist. Kus siis oobida, kindlasti ei taha maksta midagi, mitte et super vaesed oleksime, aga lihtsalt on 100 korda ponevam muid variante proovida. Jalutame siis mooda linnakest ja kysime kohalikelt nou. i punkt ytleb muidugi et tasuta telkimine pole voimalik, kohalikud aiaparandajad soovitavad pubist kysida, samuti lahke praamipileteid myyv tadi. Ka avalikus pargis voiksime proovida, aga seal oht et keegi voib tulla ja ara ajada.

Pubis oeldakse, et pole probleem, meie tagaaed teie paralt. Pystitame siis laagri, naudime mitmekaigulist matkaohtusooki, jutustame pubisse jalutavate kohalikega ja pubiomaniku Keithiga, kes igati lahke mees, lubab meil lokkegi laita. Noh me laisad, lokke asemel lahme olletoobrit libistama, meil ikka koige suuremad toobrid ees, kuni kohalikud mehed teeklaasidest marjukest ryypavad.

Hommik, saarele. Esimene mulje, shokk. Nimelt peaks tegu olema metsiku paigaga, et pole yhtegi teedega austust. Saare pohjaosa on hytikesi ja turistide majutust tais, ajaloolisest ylekarjatamisest ja yleraidest tingitud lagedad viljatud madalarohulised niidud. Isegi lai tee (saarel on ka auto, mida kasutavad saarevahid). Lisaks on saart aastaid laastanud poud ja metsatulekahjud. Prrh.

Jalutame siis nii kaugele kui saame sel paeval, pohjasaare (maria saar koosneb omavahel yhendatud pohja ja lounasaarest) lounatippu ja see juba ilus, looduslik.

Jargmine paev teeme monusa pika rannaku lounasaarele, kus mets juba roomsam, tervem ja looduslikuma ilmega. Lounasaare lounatipp paneb juba kergendatult ohkama, siia pole inimkasi joudnud. Liiga jarsud nolvad maaharimiseks metsaraideks.

Kolmanda paeva veedame pohja tagasi jalutades, teel ronime Maria nimelise mae tippu. Huvitav ronimine sest kohati tuleb yle suurte kivimyrakate valjade otse yles makke sona otseses mottes ronida, sealset nolvalt leiame saare ainsa vett tais ojakese.

Oobime aga pangal, mis tais fossiile, oosel algavad meeletud tuuleiilid, mis rasivad telki nagu kaltsunukku. Lasen fiiberlatid alla, et magades kui kotis natukenegi telki saasta. Onneks sadama ei hakka. Hommik tervitab imeilusa (grandioosse) paikesetousuga.
Triabunna. Tierney jatab yhe kotitaie riideid annetusena Triabunna second hand poodi. Vaga tubli! Kolmest kotist on juba saanud kaks.

Ja tagasi suuremale saarele. Haaletamine Hobartisse. Yks kyyti pakkunud lahke muusikaonu annab kaasa tasuta munaresti. Hobart, tanaval kohtan head vana tuttavat oma suurelt matkalt, mr maurice-i, saan siis Tierney-le tutvustada enda matkaguru. Soovitab linna peapargis tasuta avalikku kuuma dushi nautida (tehtud) ja voimalust suured matkakotid jatta Hobarti muuseum-galerii pakihoidlasse (tehtud).
Jargneb ohtusook nn vanalinna peapargis kus kaib spontaanne hipikontsert. Miks mitte, keedame avalikus pargis oma tasuta saadud mune, samas pargis kokkame hommikusooki jargmisel hommikul endale ja sopradele. Oobime telgiga mu "salaaias"

FRANKLIN RIVER NP, FRENCHMANS CAP TRACK
Ja siis uus matk. Kuna olen nagunii teel tagasi vanasse tuttavasse Tasmaania loodeossa, kus asub ka kuulus turistlik Gradle Mountain, ja paris pikk haaletustrett saare yhest otsast teise. Kuna raske oli Hobartis sopradest varem lahkuda, alustan haaletamist suht hilja, kisub vihmaseks ja pimedaks.

Viimase kyydi pakkunud eks-politseinik (kellelt kalastamise sooda suhtes nippe enne kysisin, kas kalastusluba on - ei, ara siis kellelegi ytl kui kala katte saad) nyyd jahi ja kalastusseltsi liige, palus tungivalt mitte edasi haaletada. Ega ma pimedas ei haaletagi yksinda. Kohalik vaikelinnake kuhu jahimees mu ara viskas on aga erakordselt arrogantse klienditeenindusega. nagu i punktis ikka, kui oled backpacker ja mitte pystirikas, koheldakse sind kui kontsa. Kuri naisterahvas seletab pea varisedes otsas et siin pole voimalik tasuta telkida, et mingu ma kilomeetreid tagasi kiirtee aarde miskile piknikualale, sinna viskavad mind siis samuti siit hirmsa klienditeennduse osaks saanud itaallased. Telgin vosas.

Hommikul on koikjal ylipaks udu, hommikul hydrotammi aarde kohvivett votma minnes, naen 2-3 m kaugusel lebotavat nokklooma, tegutseb seal, pyherdab, ujub rahus minema, ei tee must valjagi.
ja siis haalega uude rahvusparki, kus samuti mudarajad. aga votan rahulikult jaan raja algusesse joekaldale telkima, kuigi muda taga on kauged kaunid maed. ei taha hyppeliigest suurde riski enam panna. ylimalt selge veega jogi, aga naen vaid yht kala. jep, kalapyyk taas ei onnestu.

GRADLE MT NP - via Never Never -WALLS OF JERUSALEMM NP
Jargmine paev haaetan et kuulsasse Gradl Mt Rahvusparki, et sealset ylerahvastatud, ylikallist ja turistlikku rada pidi Walls of Jerusalemm Rahvusparki jalutada, pole plaaniski seda kuulsat Overlander rada 150 doltsi eest turistidehordidega lopuni jagada. Alustan matkamist vaga vaga hilja 5.30 ohtul, veel a 2 h paevavalgust. Asja venitas ka asjaolu, et alguses myydi mulle pakis i-punktist! vale matkakaart (yhesonga AU i punktid, anna raha siia, aga info, ei mina ei tea midagi, minge sellele ja sellele tuurile) ja pidin raja algusest tagasi ipunkti ja tagasi kaima, kulus vist lisatund. Ja seal i punktis ei oeldud mulle isegi palun vabandust, vaid et veel 4 doltsi siia, isegi olid need samad kaardid seal vist a 2 korda kallimad kui Hobartis.

Te ei kujuta ette kui pikalt ma pidin veel pargivahti veenma, et ma ei taha seda Overlanderi rada otsast lopuni teha ja rajapassi eest 150 doltsi maksta, tahan matkata never never rajale ja teha seda koike yksinda. veensin siis korravalvurit et olen vaga kogenud matkaja ja tean mida teen:)

Aga see selleks. Tana jalutan 2h Dove Lake nimelise jarve aarest Gradle Mt idaserva rada pidi korvalisemasse matkahytti, kust homme edasi Overlanderi rajale jalutan. Saabun just tiba enne kui laheb vaga pimedaks. Hytti jagan isa-poja matkaseltskonnaga Belgiast.

Uus paev, uued hytid teel ja meeletud turistigrupid, nt 20 inimest. Rada on nagu suur kiirtee, laudrajad, laiad kovad kivised rajad, muda ei ulatu rajal pahkluunigi - pole just hyppeliigese unelm, muda on palju pehmem ja parem tegelikult. NN matkahytid on nagu villad. Inimesed suurte suurte kottidega ja mitte vaga suurte matkakogemustega. tahavad muudkui jutustada, ma nii ylerahvastatud rajal nagu ei tahagi, tahaks rahu. Matkan nii kiiresti kui saan, tunnen nagu lendaks, kuna rada nii kiire ja kiire siit minema saada, sinna, kus on rahu ...

Ja jargmisel paeval keerangi kiirteelt maha, korvalrajakesele kose juurde, kust mooda joge pidi itta minnes saab nautda 6 km-st rada, mida kutsutakse NEVER NEVER rajaks, kuna seda ei pidavat tahtma parast enam kunagi uuesti teha.

aga, et tegu siiani minu jaoks parima ja ilusama rajaga siin kontinendil, sest rada polegi. Kohati sissetallatud rada tuleb ja kaob, liitub rohkete vombati radadega ja kaob. Matkad koguaeg magede vahel orus joekallast pidi. Kohutavalt ilusad eriilmelised peidetud kosed, ilus vanamets, samblane, punetavad karbseseened, varvilised rabamaad, ei yhtegi inimest, mitmekesine maastik. Ronid aeglaselt astanghaaval ylespidi. Viimane kosk rajal / korge kaunis veesammas, ronin yles ja selle otsas veel kosk ja selle otsas omakorda kaheharuline kosk ja koik see tuleb ylalt laiast joesuust, sest korgemal platool paikeb magede vahel selle toide, kaunis selge-kargeveeline jarv.

WALLS OF JERUSALEM NP
Ilu jatkub, enamus radadest suht metsikud, tuleb tihti GPSilt kinnitust oma kaardilugemise oskuse kontrolliks kysida. Ilusad jarved, korgel (1000-1100 m) paiknevad rabamaastikud, karge kliima. Vaga lihtsad ja kodused matkaonnid, sajab lund. Kui ma siinset esimest matkaonni nagin, tundus nagu oleksin tulnud koju, vulisev jogi, odus saunailmeline onnike akna ja tuleasemega. Aahhh...
Ytleme et jargmised paevad laks paris jahedaks, sadas lund ja edasistes onnides ei tohtinud tuld laita ega rajal loket teha. Karge ilu. Oli vagavaga kylm ja vagavaga ilus.

Tagasiteel Railtoni, Reneele kylla. oobin Deloraines, kuna hetkel kaimas Tasmaanias festival nimega Ten Days on the Islands ja vaikelinnakeses Deloraine, kuulus ylihea ladina muusika viljeleja Armandito Y Su Trovason. Kontserdile jouan tunnikese varemgi, ei mina tea et vahepeal kella keeratud. Meeltult hea salsa muusika, koik tantsivad. Palju ruumi lava ees, toredad sarasilmsed inimesed, juhhuu Karge ilm, kuum muusika.


ja nyyd need pildid koik riburada pidi ajas tagasi

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Walls of Jerusalem NP

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NEVER NEVER TRACK

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LEAVING THE HIGHWAY-OVERLANDER, EXIT LINE - HARTNETT FALLS

OVERLANDER, DOVE LAKE

Welcome, overlander way -have you paid ....

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FRANKLIN RIVER NP

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MARIA ISLAND

AS SOUTH AS YOU GET

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TRIABUNNA, PUB BACKYARD, CUP OF TEA...

TRIABUNNA PUB

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HOBART, THE DOWNTOWN PROPERTY

ITS SO GOOD, ITS LIFE

REET, RAILTON

The trek

Hello, my dear friends!

As promised, I ll write this time about my adventure in english as well!
Pictures in my estonian version CLICK HERE
Trek to the end of the world.


The main reason I came to Tassie, was to come back to the wild and enjoy its nature by trekking.
So first two months I was working here, but in very nice neighbourhood, in the middle of the rainforest, having some occasional daytrips and 2-3 days hikes. But wanted to see more of Tassie and do something more callenging.

So where...
Definitely I didnt want to do something too touristy. Excluded the famous Overlander track. Well the South-West NP and its tracks seemed to be wild and remote enough.
So I`ve heard about SouthCoast Track- 85 km from south part of NP, Melaleuca to the south east, Cockle Creek, before.

Most bushwalkers fly in to Melaleuca, as there is little airfield for light aircrafts and then walk out. But I didnt want to fly, wanted to walk all the way, and as there is a 65 km Port Davey track starting from the place called Scotts Peak Dam, from the shores of lake Pedder at the northern boundary of national park - there was no question, why should`nt I do them both.
Specially if you can fly in your food pack, by those aircrafts, dont have to carry all the food at once.
Have to say, it seemed a challenge at those days I was first planning it and also the last day before I started: remote track, boat crossing by my own etc, never done in OZ longer hike than 3 days ..., but just seemed to sweet not to try.

Cant say, I did too much planning or prepared too much. Luckyly had most of camping equipment already, so on one beautiful day I started hitchikeing from the start of the highway from Launceston to Hobart.
It took me less than 30 sec, when I met you, Steve. Thank you so much for all you help. As you helped me so much preparing this trek, I kind of felt you are with me on my trek. And you GPS definitely was, thanks again, thank you heaps.
And I really wish you get the opporunity to return and to do it as well.

In Hobart, well there were more people, who were very interested about my plans. Thanks Nikola, my roommate, listening my stories. Yep, I took a break and had a KitKat!
Cheers, Andi, your concern, kind a felt as well you are with me on this trek. Well, yep. although I was doing it alone, I never felt alone.

Mission continues.
Well its a long way from Hobart to Scotts Peak Dam. But not if you meet all these kindest people. Took me 3 cars and 3 hours, so I was very lucky. Big-big thank you, Geoff, 60 km-s extra lift from your destination..., it was a mission for you as well. Still remember as we got closer and closer to the Scotts Peak and the sky got more and more grey and you just started to laugh. Yes, it was kind of the point to think again... And then you even said that you are jeleous, that I can start it now and you not, and then on my first days in the middle off the rains, winds and mud, I was thinking you shouldnt be, at least not at this preticular moment. But now, summarizeing it all, yes you should be, but I know you will take this journey as well one day. Cheers, mate!

So, there it is, on the southern shores of lake Pedder, two fishermen saveing tent from crule winds, it rains, it rains. Scotts Peak Dam. Journey begins.
As I kept my travelling journal during this journey, I add some comments from there now on.


I day, 4 april
...track goes over the open moorlands and hilly plains, it is very muddy, sippery, windy ... Track reminds me more of the constantly running creek, water is raining from up, splaches from the track under feet and sprinkles occasionaly up from the grayfish burrows as well...
As I had late start, walked only 3 hrs today, spending the night in the random spot in the bush. It rains all night long, strong winds speeding through ,..

... II day
Morning starts with wearing yeaterdays wet clothes and on the road again, huuhh ... on the half way making the hot stock in winds and rains, as I feel, only thing what produces warmth here is my own body, but it must be heaten. ..
..
... III day
Day starts with river crossing. Pretty strong flow, chilly-freshing water. "Smokeing" mountains, does`nt rain, YET. There is occasional light shineing through the thick thick clouds. Whistleing, no worries in my mind, walking through, as suddenly I hear familiar noise accompanied with pain in my anckle. Yep, I`ve done it, twisted my anckle. Whats next, well, quick cool compress straight from the track - chilly water and mud, useing all my bandanas to tape/support the anckle, luckily have my anckle-support sock in the bottom of my bag. There is nothing to do than walk anyway, better further than back, I just wanna walk it. Its a mission... Makeing some more tape from my polar fleece blancket later on for better support, that`ll do, I have nothing better...

IV day
Morning, its still raining. Clothes, which I left outside to the line yesterday, are ofcourse covered with thick waterdrops. Twist the water out and wet cold clothes can be worn again. Well, its kind every morning of routin now anyway. After extra long hot coffe and heaps of nutella and crispybread I can do it again, prrhh....
Today I see even more light through the clouds, but still not sun itself. Its pretty nice actually, beautiful plains, beautiful shaped green hills. Yes, Im wet, but doesnt feel cold, between the hills there is less windy and anyway, being a northern woman is an advantage here.

...But mud continues...
I think, by now I should know every colours of mud, but think again...

V day ....
Morning is very promising. I tye my wet clothes to the bag and hit the track again. Nice walk over the range, views to the other ranges, river landscape, plains and forested hills. So many interesting-shaped hills, like from the children`s sandbox.
Just beautiful!
Sun! Yep first day, when I can see my shadow for longer than 10 sec already. And later on, its all sunny.

Nice colourful little rivers on the forested sites and open landscapes you can see so far. Can spot my boatcrossing site (BATHURST HARBOUR), i`ve been nervous about most, already 3 km-s ahead.

This boatcrossing is actually most enjoyable event. Sunny, not much waves. Its quit hard alone to trag those really heavy boats to the water and out from the water. Need to cross harbour three times, why - well there is one boat each side and after your crossing it has to be one boat each side as well.
...So much sun, finally I can dry all my stuff... Hanging everything to the bushes, feels like a scene of survival movie...:)

This is, 8 april, the womens day. Most beautiful evening and night, camping in random spot at the grassy beach lawn, mirrorsmooth lagoonwater, reflextions of magnificient mountain and hilly rangers, rocky beaches and mangrove bush on the water, its almost full moon. Im just so happy, I am, where I am in the moment, I couldnt want anything more...

VI day
Morning is cloudy, very humid air, but it does not rain and all day long, juhhuu .......
Have`nt seen any people for 4 days. ......
Hitting the Melaleuca today, and all these airplaines, boats here, too much... Collecting my food parcel from shed... There are 2 huts- luxury, roof, walls.... Have a lovely chat with birdwatching ladys, they offer mere dip, cheese and crackers, tastes like heaven... Port Davey has been finished ........

VII day
Start of the new track ; south coast track. As ranger, I met yesterday, promised to me, it seems like a highway compared to Port Davey, bridges to cross rivers, wooden tracks, less mud... But pack with new food supply, its dam`n heavy...
... More people, or just, there are other people:) - party of 5, father and son (catched me up, also did port davey) and 2 lovely backpackers I met at campsite later - Dieter from Belgium and Francois from France.... Interesting beaches, a lot of heavy algae, called kelp.

VIII day
Specially corgeous bright and warm morning sun. So pretty...
.... Walking on quite hard track and thinking currently about my anckle, I fall and twist it again. Cool compress beside the track and carry on ... till after 1,5hrs it happens again, its painful, its painful now...
Crabbing a walking stick later on from the bush, .. limping ...
There is a doctor in the bushwalkers party of 5. Doctor looks my anckle later on at campsite and diagnoses I degree injury, very likely to become II degree, if I twist it again, when I wont be able to walk out on my own leg anymore. No point to have day off, it doesnt heal that quickly anyway. Reccommendation is to carry on and not to injure it again, doctor has better tape for me... But tomorrow Im faceing the hardest part of this track...

Day 9

Ironbound range. Climbing up 800 m from sealevel and then descending it all back. You can see endless ascend ahead of you, track goes on and on. 13 km-s.

Well the only way is to keep on walking. Ascend is not too bad. But descend is endless, in the bush, you cant see, how much is done and how much it is to be done. Endless. And track crosses slippery roots and deep mud holes almost all the way down.
Im calculateing every step I take, being as much concerning about my anckle as I can, only once I almost slip.. Only thing is to stay positive and keep on going, there is know other way... Seeing more and more sections of muddy descend after each corner, I just say thank you, well you can cry or you can laugh, crying doesnt help anyway.. Takes for me, the limping girl, 11-12 hrs to finish, arriveing to campsite with sunset...

Day 10
Beautiful sun...
Miss the boat crossing site somehow and faceing the mouth of lagoon river at beach. Its low tide and instead of quick sand I`ve faced desert looking beach. ... Im not only one, according to the footprints ahead me, more people have chosen that route,,, Well river will be grossed, packing important stuff on the top of my back, head and shoulders stay dry anyway, not too deep... relaxes muscles very well... all good ...

Day 11
Haveing a leasure day, just 4 km-s further,,, My body and ofcourse the anckle are too tired for more...
Gentle thunder and rain in foggy coastal oldgrowth forest, smells good there... mystical ...
Campsite at most beautiful cliff...
Rains.

With sunset arrives radiating mr Maurice, hikeing barefoot, also walked the Port Davey and catched me up now.
...


Day 12
Well, morning starts with takeing the dropping wet clothes from the line, twisteing the water out and wearing them all. No worries, school from first days!... I invest on warm dry sleeping gear...
...and I`ve reached to the end of the world, its Granite Beach for me... ... there is most beautiful spiky cliff and waterfall in the end of the world, yep its foggy, its rainy, but its absolutelly absolutelly beautiful....

and when it starts again.. endless muddy-boggy sections from mud and waterfilled knee deep holed hill tracks up and down - up and down ... my right leg muscles are too tired to do all the work, Im tragging myself out with pain from the muddy sucking holes... Hardest section ever ...

Day 13
Warm bright morning sun
We, me, Dieter, Francois and Maurice stay in the beach and enjoy the day, whilst all the other bushwalkers have had early start and left... Sharing is caring, to get different tasting experiences, we share our camping food and cook nonstop, breakfast to lunch... Its warm, good company, tasty food, ,, its beautiful...

Walking slowly out at afternoon. Powerful cliffs, rock formations, views to the ocean...
And then it comes, COCKLE CREEK. ... really... , yep here it is. .. what to do next..

well there is good company, place and food, many course meals. And so next day and next day in next place...


ahh sometimes life is too good, yep,

..............................................
Well trekking must go on,,,

Being knee deep in the mud, all wet and in pain, I promised to myself to fly straight out to Queensland after this. Enough!
But Im still in Tasmania, and been trekking nonstop after this. Having occasional trips to Hobart to resupply myself. Hitchikeing, camping in random spots.

I have to agree with the saying of nice friend I met on South Coast track - I love Tasmania, beautiful weather many times per day (Francois G.) And thats true! You just love this beautiful place and its moody weather or not. Well, anyway it helps, if you are from the cold country. Works at my case...

So where else I`ve been

Relax 3 days trek to the Mt Field NP - recommend lake Dobson area, pretty colourful alpine vegetation, highland moorlands, but no fish

3 days with my good mate Tierney on Maria island, where to see the beauty, go as much south as you can and hitching to Triabunna harbour- change you identity, cant look too hippie or green, logging town. But has a very friendly pub, they let you to put you camp up at their backyard.

Short camping trip at the start of the Frenchmans cap track, Franklin Rivers NP. Heaps of beautiful rocks, not much wildlife, cool shaped mountains. Heaps of mud - so you understand why it stayed just for 1 night trip:)

5 days Gradle Valley - Never Never - Walls of Jerusalem. Did famous overcrowded Ovelander partly do get to the Never Never track to walk to the Walls of Jerusalem NP. Thanks Maurice for hint. Never Never track is definitely the most beautiful track in OZ, as there is no confined track, its pristine and all those so diffrent shaped absolutelly beautiful waterfalls on the way. Powerful: waterfall, you climb on the top there, and there are other ones on that top...

Well, I have only one thing to say -
ITS SO GOOD, ITS LIFE

reet